Category: Prepper

  • Guns For The Country Home

    Guns for The Country Home

    Some time back I stumbled across an interesting discussion on the appropriate firearm for the farm or country home, much like the country home my folks maintained for many decades.

    The Old Man was, of course, a farmer for much of his life, and an old school country gentleman.  His attitude towards firearms reflected most of his type and his generation; firearms were tools essential to the maintenance and protection of homestead and crops, in the same order as a chainsaw, a scythe, or a tractor.  They were selected and maintained as such, with strictly utilitarian considerations.  Childhood in the Great Depression and young adulthood during WW2 made most of the Old Man’s generation practically minded people.

    That being the case, the Old Man maintained three firearms on and about the place.  They were a 12-gauge pump shotgun, a .22 rimfire rifle, and a .22 handgun.  The shotgun was his first purchase with his demobilization pay when he returned from the Army in 1946, the .22 rifle was a third anniversary present from my mother in 1950, and the .22 pistol he bought for recreational shooting sometime in the mid-1960s.  I still have all three firearms, and no amount of money could persuade me to part with them, so don’t ask.  And, in what should come as a surprise to no one, these are the three types of guns I think are most useful around your typical country home.

    If You Can Have Only One Gun

    Winchester Model 12 and Stevens 520A.

    Now, on to the country home:  If a family can only maintain one firearm on a country homestead, one would be wise to pick up something along the lines of the Old Man’s first post-war purchase, a simple 12-gauge pump-action shotgun.  The Old Man’s Stevens pump-gun hasn’t been manufactured for many years, although used examples are sometimes available at bargain prices.  The old Stevens 520/620 series are great guns, John Browning designed take-down pump guns with solid steel receivers.  They’re reliable and brutally tough, and if you can find them around, come pretty cheap.

    The Mossberg 500 series or the Remington 870 are likewise solid guns that will give long service; my own pair of Mossbergs, a 12 and a 20, have been functioning flawlessly in the game fields for 35 and 40 years now.  There are plenty of others on the market, but were I equipping an outpost myself, I’d probably go for a Mossberg or a Remington, for the primary reason that parts will be easy to find.

    The advantages of the 12 gauge are many.  Ammo is readily available anywhere and various loads/shot sizes can handle anything from garden pests to turkeys, while a slug will dispatch a deer or even a bear.  Pump guns are solid, reliable and easy to operate.  Most hold five or six rounds in the magazine, which should be enough ammo for most chores.

    I’m a big fan of old shotguns, particularly the pre-64 Winchester Model 12 and the Belgian Browning Auto-5s.  I have a fair stable of those pieces and over time will probably buy more.  But these are collector’s pieces, and while I shoot them and hunt with them, I would not necessarily drag them through mud and bad weather.  For that, a rougher piece is in order – a utility shotgun, suitable for the only gun on a country homestead.

    Even though I will always love my old Brownings and Winchesters, I will always keep the old Mossbergs around as utility shotguns, especially after our move north.  Of course, my attitudes towards firearms are somewhat different than the Old Man’s, and so the Mossbergs will still have plenty of company in the rack.

    I’ve seen some great shooting done with simple 12-gauge pumps, too.  Despite his utilitarian attitude towards shotguns, the Old Man was nevertheless as artist with his old Stevens.  He was known to go 100 straight on the skeet range in his Army days, and he was highly skilled at making a shot charge arrive in the same location as a fleeing pheasant or grouse.  In his early 80s he cut off the tip of his trigger finger in a jointer, and since that time firing a gun with any recoil caused a stab of pain through his shooting hand, but before moving to town he capped his hunting career in a blaze of glory by stalking and killing four wild turkeys with a bolt-action .410, causing our old friend Dave to comment, “if anyone but your Dad told me that, I’d call him a damned liar.”  I was always disappointed by my failure to catch up to Dad on the trap range, although he would have admitted I was better than he with a rifle.

    Which brings us to…

    If You Can Have Only Two Guns

    Mossberg 44US. Not the one I had but one just like it.

    But let’s say you can have two guns around your place.  I’d recommend the second be a .22 rifle.

    Oddly enough, while my gun rack contains several .22LR semi-autos, if you were to keep a .22 rifle in a rural setting, I’d recommend a bolt gun.  Why?  Several reasons:

    • Bolt guns are simple, they generally break down easily and are easy to clean and repair.
    • Even in a .22LR, bolt guns are accurate.  Not that semi-autos can’t be accurate – but bolt guns are generally a hair ahead.
    • Simplicity leads to reliability.  Fewer moving parts means less wear, although any well-maintained firearm should last a lifetime.
    • Some semi-autos, like my own slicked-up Ruger 10/22, can be finicky about ammo.  Bolt guns generally digest any ammo with aplomb, and generally give you the option to run quiet .22 Shorts if you are shooting at close quarters.  A subsonic .22 Short round fired from a rifle isn’t much louder than a finger-snap, and that can come in downright handy.

    The other advantage to a .22LR bolt gun is price.  There are literally millions of inexpensive and yet reliable and accurate .22 bolt guns around.  You don’t need high polish or fancy walnut for accuracy in a .22 (although those things sure are nice).  Anyone who has handled an old Mossberg or Marlin bolt .22 should be able to attest to that.  Back in the day I bought a Mossberg bolt-action .22 with US Government markings for the grand sum of ten dollars, and I could shoot pop-bottle caps off fence posts at 25 yards with it – with iron sights.  That Mossberg today would cost you more than that, even adjusted for inflation, but not all that much more.  In fact, the same gun without the US Government markings, for some reason, will cost you a lot less.

    A lot of the comments above will apply to a lever gun as well, except that .22LR lever guns are generally pricier and more complicated to maintain.

    If You Can Have Only Three Guns

    For your third gun, I’d recommend a medium-to-major power handgun, one you can carry in a belt holster and shoot accurately.  Anything from a 9mm auto to a .44 Magnum will work; it’s far more important that you can handle the sidearm well.  Revolvers, though, are generally simpler, easier to maintain and less fussy about ammo than autos.  Revolvers also have the capability of handling more powerful loads in a reasonably sized piece.  Bear in mind that if you’re in a remote location, you may have to repair the thing yourself.  Some of us are better tinkerers than others.

    With the above in mind, though, take into consideration any possible uses you might be putting that sidearm to – caliber considerations in Georgia may be quite different than those in Alaska.

    Most people find handguns more difficult to handle well than a rifle or shotgun, so be prepared to spend some money on practice ammo.

    Parts Is Parts

    In a rural home, it’s a good idea to keep some parts on hand.  Firing pins, springs, screws and action pins, all good things to keep a supply of.  You’ll also need tools, as gunsmithing tools are somewhat specialized; Brownell’s Basic Gunsmith Tool Kit contains a good assortment of tools, gauges and so on to keep your shooting irons shooting.  Keep a good supply of cleaning solvents and lubricant on hand.

    If your pump shotgun has a barrel that can be swapped out easily, as does the Remington 870 and the Mossberg 500, an extra barrel isn’t a bad idea.  And speaking of barrels, while I’m fond of Briley choke tubes and run them on a lot of my shotguns, an ugly but solid Poly-Choke type collet choke may be a better idea for a country-homestead gun; you can lose choke tubes, but that Poly-Choke is there for keeps.

    Last-Ditch

    No, I’m not kidding.

    If “prepping” is your thing, or you’re just very remote and are worried about supplies being hard to get, here’s something to think about:  What would you do if cut off from a supply of ammo?

    The answer may be to scale your technology back some – say, to about 1800.  A smooth bore flintlock musket is versatile, will kill birds with shot or moose with round balls, and if you have bar lead, a mold, flint and a supply of sulfur you can make everything else you’ll need to keep shooting.  Charcoal isn’t hard to come by, and if you have a latrine, you can make saltpeter.  You’ll need a fair amount, as the recipe is generally 75% saltpeter, 15% charcoal and 10% sulfur.

    That’s something to think about, anyway.

    And So…

    A country home requires a lot of tools to keep the place maintained, safe and tidy.  Even if you’re not a hobby shooter or (like me) a collector, a firearm is one of those essential tools.  Whether your immediate need is rabbit stew, pest control, dissuading something big and toothy or something two-legged and belligerent, sometimes a firearm is the only thing that will work.

  • In Defense of Photovoltaic Power Systems

    Show us on the doll where the PV system touched you.

    A few weeks ago Suthenboy expressed a strong opinion on the effectiveness of photovoltaic (PV) power systems, or solar electricity[1]. Reading between the lines I surmise he had a bad experience with one once.

    I cannot deny Suthenboy’s lived experience but I can present an alternative experience. I’ve been living in my off the grid[2] PV-powered cabin for over 20 years.

    I’ve designed four off the grid PV power systems: two for cabins and two for recreational vehicles. The largest is a one kilowatt PV array for a neighbor’s camp. All four systems work perfectly except for my neighbor’s because he doesn’t maintain his battery bank. He’s probably going to install utility power this summer which doesn’t bother me because he’ll certainly make me a good offer for his big PV array.

    How It Works

    If you were promised there would be no math then you can skip the next paragraph.

    A PV array is composed of several photovoltaic panels. A PV panel is composed of several photovoltaic cells. When illuminated by bright sunlight each PV cell produces about 0.5 volts[3] of electromotive force with an amperage[4] proportional to the cell’s area. My cabin’s ancient PV array consists of eight panels. Each panel has 33 cells. The cells are connected in series so the voltage adds up to (33 cells) * (0.5 volts) = 16.5 volts. Each cell puts out about 2 amps of current to a single panel provides (16.5 volts) * (2 amps) = 33 watts[5] of power. With eight panels my PV array puts out (8 panels) * (33 watts) = 264 watts. My cabin’s PV array is tiny by modern standards. These days you can get a single PV panel with more power than my entire array.

    But you can ignore the details and think of a PV array simply as a free source of battery bank charging power because a PV system of the type I’m describing is more accurately called a battery bank system. The battery bank extends power into the nighttime. The battery bank expands the consciousness of one’s energy usage. The battery bank is vital to the PV system.

    The battery bank is composed of one or more deep cycle batteries. My battery bank has two that look like car starter batteries but are designed to be charged and discharged (cycled) many times. Car starter batteries aren’t designed to be cycled and won’t last long in a battery bank application.

    In a modern PV system the battery bank powers a single device: the inverter. The inverter converts low-voltage DC[6] power from the battery bank into high-voltage AC[7] power like the kind that comes out of a wall socket. A modern inverter can be plumbed into a home with standard AC wiring without having to make any wiring changes.

    How It Works II: The Diagram

    This diagram can be used as an actual schematic for a PV system because all the parts and connections are shown. Power flows from right to left. Blue lines are AC power. Black and red lines are DC power, black is negative (minus) and red is positive (plus). The equipment to the right of the battery bank is the “charge” section from which power comes. The equipment to the left of the battery bank is the “load” section to which power goes. The independent charge and load sections mean half the system still works while the other half is down for whatever reason.

    At the upper right corner is a PV array consisting of two PV panels wired in parallel. Simple PV systems use 12-volt deep cycle lead-acid batteries and PV panels sized to charge such batteries. More panels can be added to the array as long as they’re wired in parallel, plus-to-plus and minus-to-minus.

    The PV array is connected to a PV Charge Controller which ensures that the PV array doesn’t overcharge the battery bank.

    The PV array is usually not the only battery bank charging source. Nearly all PV systems have a backup generator for long stretches of cloudy weather. A gasoline generator and a battery charger are shown in the lower right corner. My backup generator is a 1KW Honda.

    If the site has sufficient wind then a windmill is an excellent additional charging source. Windmills come in AC and DC varieties; the one on the diagram is DC. A windmill needs its own charge controller.

    The plus outputs and minus outputs of the battery charger and charge controller(s) are connected together to make a single positive/negative wire pair. The positive wire is connected to a fuse (or breaker) that prevents the battery bank from exploding in case of a short in the charge section. The negative wire is connected to a current shunt that is used by the “Charge Meter” to calculate the amperage coming from the charge section.

    A modern DC electric meter shows voltage, amperage, wattage, and cumulative watt-hours. This PV system design has two meters, one for the electricity coming in from the charge section and one for the electricity going out to the load section.

    The other sides of the charging section’s fuse (plus) and current shunt (minus) are connected to the battery bank.

    In the middle of the diagram is a battery bank consisting of two lead-acid batteries wired in parallel. Like the PV array, additional batteries can be added as long as they’re connected in parallel, plus-to-plus and minus-to-minus. The battery bank includes a desulfator which is a clever circuit that puts a high-frequency pulse over the battery bank leads. The pulse encourages any sulfur crystals that may be forming on the batteries’ lead plates to dissolve back into the acid. A desulfator increases a battery bank’s life many times.

    The load section is a mirror-image of the charge section. A fuse and a current shunt are connected to the battery bank. The other sides of the fuse and current shunt are connected to the inverter which in this design is the only DC-powered device. The inverter turns low-voltage DC power into high-voltage AC power. The AC output of the inverter is wired into the household AC distribution box.

    If the house has utility power then a special synchronizing inverter is required. A synchronizing inverter synchronizes its AC output with the AC output of the utility. A synchronizing inverter will also turn itself off if the utility power is out. This is a safety measure so that linemen working on the utility wires outside won’t be electrocuted by unexpected sources of battery power.

    Modern PV systems often don’t have a battery bank and dump excess power on the grid. This runs the electric meter backwards, effectively using the grid as a battery bank, storing power during the day and drawing it back again at night.

    Maintenance

    A PV system is remarkably stable. There’s little that can go wrong.

    If a PV panel is well-built and the cells protected from the elements then the panel will last a long time.[8] I bought my panels used in 1990 and they were about five years old at the time. They still work fine.[9] The only maintenance is sweeping snow off of them in the winter.

    A well-maintained battery bank can last a long time too. Thanks to the desulfator my first set of batteries lasted 20 years before they simply refused to take a charge. My batteries have always been the sealed maintenance-free type.

    One time my generator battery charger stopped working so I replaced it.

    My neighbor’s camp is at the top of a hill in a clearing and he has had instances of his charge controller and inverter getting fried by nearby lightning ground strikes. Lightning protectors work by shunting the power into the ground. I don’t know of a way to protect equipment when the lightning surge is coming up from the ground.

    Footnotes

    [1] Electricity is really hard to describe. An approachable, but bad, conceptual model is “Electricity is the movement of electrons through a conductor (wire).”

    [2] The “grid” is the telephone and electric companies’ wiring and infrastructure. A location enjoying these services is “on the grid”.

    [3] Voltage (volts) is a measure of force. Electrons are compelled to move along a conductor when they’re subject to a voltage differential. The higher the voltage the faster electrons move.

    [4] Amperage (amperes or amps) is a measure of flow. From an amperage, one can calculate the number of electrons per second passing a point on a conductor.

    [5] Power (watts) is calculated by multiplying voltage and amperage. High power applications are measured in thousands of watts (kilowatts) or millions of watts (megawatts).

    [6] Direct Current (DC) electricity is produced by a battery, PV array, or the power supply/charger of most common electronic devices. There’s a positive wire and a negative wire. DC electricity is generally low voltage most commonly 24 volts or less.

    [7] Alternating Current (AC) electricity is produced by generators large (nuclear plant) and small (gasoline backup) and inverters. AC electricity is distributed on the grid and comes out of your home’s wall socket. AC electricity alternates positive/negative voltage on the two wires quickly, 60 times a second in the U.S. AC electricity is generally high voltage with 120 volts and 240 volts being most common in the U.S.

    [8] This article from 2010 is about testing a 30-year-old PV panel of the same model I have in my PV array. My PV panels are a few years newer than the one in the article and not in such good shape:

    https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/testing-a-thirty-year-old-photovoltaic-module

    [9] I recently measured 234 watts coming from my PV array in a high-power use situation. My record is 262 watts in a high-power use situation in 2009. I’ve never done a maximum-power test on my PV array.

  • Bee Business

     

    How does one get interested in something?

    I see the Glibs with their skilled hobbies, doing things, making things. I’m not a creative type person, I don’t see the same things when I see a block of wood or piece of metal or an old car that lots of other people see. It’s not that I don’t enjoy those things when someone else creates it, I just see the literal thing.

    Instead, I see a seed growing into a plant or a tree or a flower. That I understand. Those things that don’t require any input from me, except maybe for a little care or water or fertilizer. A few years ago a friend invited me to watch him work with his honey bees. Like many or most I had my own ideas as to avoid getting involved; who wants to get stung by those thousands of angry bees? He seemed to know quite a bit, had the suit and hat and seemed oblivious to the dangers I saw. Then we took the frames with the honey to his daughter’s house one Sunday; it was like a party, other people had brought a few frames and I got involved in the processing a little, the spinning and the bottling and was rewarded with a jar of honey to take home. Now I really was interested.

    The following Spring my friend asked me if I wanted a hive. He would help me, loan or give me the necessary equipment. He gave me enough to set up a hive and even assembled it out in my yard and I was in business, sort of. I still had no idea of what was going on, but I was helping him and in turn he was helping/teaching me but I still wasn’t too involved in the actual process. We weren’t doing very well; we did everything he knew, but our production was rather limited. Seemed like we weren’t progressing very fast.

    Then he decided he wasn’t interested anymore and his daughter kind of got tired of us spreading sticky honey all over her kitchen floor and leaving her to clean up the house and the equipment. She asked if I wanted to borrow her extractor and associated equipment. I had space to store all the equipment inside my garage, along with most of the excess (old and dilapidated) hive boxes and frames. Then I found a young guy (about 50 years old) that was interested and he bought a bee suit and I loaned him some of the equipment I had borrowed. We still weren’t very productive, our ROI was always between very negative and deeply negative.

    We did that for a couple years, and a visiting fishing friend was here and was a long time beekeeper with lots of expertise. He looked at our setups and taught us some things we weren’t doing, and that year production shot up. He came again the following year and showed us more of his knowledge and skills, and he worked barehanded with only a hat and veil. Our production has soared for the last 3 years. We’re a long ways from professionals, but it’s sure a lot more fun when the honey is plentiful. Best of all we have a party at the extraction time, with Minnesota Hot Dish Pot Luck being on the menu. Most of my friends and neighbors are rather experienced (old) cooks so the food is good/plentiful and highly seasoned for Minnesota people, ketchup and mustard–but not Dijon–being the staples.

    Now, for those who are still reading this, I’ll try to pass on some of the things we do.

    We tend to think that beekeeping is only important in the summer when the bees are active, but it really is a year round project, with not much going on in the off season but still a little. We don’t winter our bees over; we have tried but the winters here are too severe. We’ve tried covering them, moving them into a shed, surrounding them with bales of hay. Nothing worked. There is hive clean up in the off season however.

    What is needed to have bees and to extract the honey, one of the main purposes of having bees?

    Equipment needed

    A hive, consisting of 2 brood boxes and 2 supers (boxes)
    A feeder tray
    10 frames for each box (actually more are necessary)
    A top cover
    A base boar

    For the skilled wood craftsman with a table saw, the boxes are fairly simple to make. For me, however, I buy them precut and assemble them myself. This is a wintertime project that gets me thinking about spring. If you are lucky enough to find some good condition hive boxes on Craigslist or a weekly shopper, even better. The problem with used equipment is there could be diseases or pests included.

    A feeder. Here in Central Minnesota our bees come early enough there isn’t any nectar yet available for the bees and they have to be fed. We buy some premade stuff that’s supposed to have protein, but sugar syrup or corn syrup is often used. Follow the recipe for the sugar syrup.

    A smoker. They are fairly expensive, about $45 or so but essential. We use dry red pine needles for fuel, creates great smoke.

    A hat with a veil. I use a broad brimmed hat with a mosquito net. A bee hat/veil is better, it keeps the bees away from your face better than a mosquito net. Again, pricey, $45 or so.

    Long gloves that extend over your sleeves, they have to be flexible enough to use tools but tough enough that the bees can’t sting through them. Kiss another 30-40 bucks away. I use yellow cotton gloves (Mr Cheapskate) but I sometimes get stung around the wrists when the jacket sleeves pull up.

    A bee keeper jacket is nice because the veil is zipped directly onto the jacket. Mr CS wears a buttoned up shirt, a jacket zipped all the way up and mosquito net pulled over the turned up collar. So far haven’t gotten bit around the neck or face lately.

    A frame tool, about 7-8 bucks but a screwdriver or a flat bar tool for pulling nails would work. The frame tool is a little better. The equipment is available on line, I use Mann Lake Bee Co, mainly because they are only 50 miles away and they have an online catalog as well.

    That’s pretty much all the start up equipment.

    OK, you found some clean hive boxes and other associated equipment on Craigslist. Buy it all or at least twice as much as you think you’ll need. Make a package offer. Not many people are going to be interested in it, the seller wants to get rid of either the equipment or his/her spouse because often those things may not be compatible.

     

     

    Where to start

    Now that winter is here and all the bee stuff is in my garage, it’s time to start cleaning the hive boxes and frames. Bees are hard workers but tend to be a little untidy inside the hive. They glue everything together with a homemade glue called propolis. I scrape the propolis from the frames and the boxes; it has hardened into something like amber and requires a little work. I like the frames to be clean at the beginning of the season so they can be removed for inspection or moved around inside the hive box.

    OK, we’re all cleaned up and finally it’s time to set up the hive in preparation for the bee arrival. I haul my stuff to a location near my garden. It’s a small platform about a foot high and about 6 feet long, big enough for two hives. Has an electric fence around it to keep out bears. We’ve had a few problems over the years and on one occasion required terminal action.

    The assembly is bottom board, 2 brood boxes, each with 10 clean frames, feeder tray and top cover. That’s it.

    We’ve pre-bought the bees at Mann Lake Bee Co, (Hackensack, MN) and have an appointment on the Saturday after the bees arrived from California, in a 40 ft trailer, usually in May.

    We have a ritual. My partner, another friend and I go to pick up the bees. I drive my pick-up. We leave early enough to stop at a country restaurant for breakfast, one of my friends picks up the tab. At Mann Lake it’s a mad house, even though we have an appointment, everyone, including us, arrives a half hour early. There are hundreds of anxious customers. Mann Lake is prepared with lots of people working invoices, sales and helping with the loading. We pick up our protein syrup and any ancillary equipment that we need, head for the bee barn, a greeter takes our invoice and brings out our order of 4 boxes of bees. Bees are sold by the pound; we get 3-pound packages, roughly 10K bees plus a viable queen per pack. The bee boxes remind you of the screened frog boxes you kept your frogs in before they all died waiting for your dad to find the time to take you fishing.

    My partner has essentially the same set up at his property, platform/fence/etc. Now we don our bee apparel. We put out his bees first, we spray them with sugar water through the screen, immediately they go into an eating frenzy, cleaning themselves and unconcerned about us. They get roughly dumped into the brood box, my partner opens the queen enclosure and gently places the enclosure in the top brood box. Next comes my attempt to pour the super elixir into the feeder tray, which is now on top of the brood boxes. Cover with the top cover and voila! Do #2 hive and we’re finished. Go to my house and repeat.

     

     

     

    After about 2 weeks we will inspect the hives by checking the feeder trays, refilling if necessary.

    Usually by this time the bees are finding enough nectar to support themselves. If they seem to be doing well we’ll remove the feeder tray and replace it with a hive box with the clean 10 frames. Now we are hoping that the queen is alive and making babies. We are hoping that in another 2 weeks some of the frames will be filling with honey. I will be doing a visual inspection about 3 times a day, mainly ’cause I am curious and have lots of time, to see if the bees are bringing in pollen.

    OK, now it’s been 1 month since we set up the hives and put in the bees.

    We do a serious inspection and find some frames are full of honey and capped with wax. We will pull those frames and replace them with empty frames. The honey frames will be placed in plastic bags and put in a freezer in my garage, to avoid any problems with bears or other bees robbing the hive. About every 2 weeks all summer we’ll pull full frames, replace with empty. Sometimes the queen will have moved up into the hive box and begun laying eggs in it. Then we have to use our second hive box so at that point we’re 4 boxes high (2 brood, 2 hive). Happens frequently.

    We have about a 3 month season here and with good luck we’ll have close to a 100 or so frames of honey. On the last pull, always the second week end of September, we’ll close out and take all frames that have enough honey in to make it worthwhile. The last step in this stage is to move the bees from my house to my partner’s property. Now instead of 10K per hive we’re looking at 30-40K per hive.

     

     

    All summer the bees have been rather docile, now they are agitated, we have stripped most all of the honey.

    We have the smoker pouring out smoke, that seems to help a little to quiet them down. I pick up a brood box and carry it to the truck. There are thousands of bees that are eager to bite me, I’m the Cheap guy with the short yellow gloves and they have found the skin around my wrists. Finally we get them into the truck, minus those that were flying or foraging when we were busy moving them. Without headgear/veils it would be impossible. This past September, I got hit 7 times that day; the stings aren’t so bad but always itch for a few days. We haul the bees about 5 miles and put them with my partner’s bees. We move the bees to avoid having them around on the following Sunday when we spin out the honey. If we didn’t move them we’d have those bees trying to recover the honey that we had taken all summer and it would be tough to try to work. Innocent folks would get stung.

    Now comes the good part.

    After the rather routine stuff all summer comes the Honey Harvest. On the 3rd Sunday of September we spin out the honey. We have an extractor that looks like an old fashion ringer washing machine tub. On the day before, I have taken all the frames out of the freezer, put them into empty hive boxes, warmed them up so the honey would flow easier. Early Sunday we start to work, uncapping the frames, spin them in the centrifuge and strain and bottle our work. We have a crew that shows up, some fly in from Dallas/Seattle, some come from Minneapolis. Guests show up about 10-11 AM and the finale is at noon when all the ladies bring out their secret recipes of hot dish and we have a great pot luck lunch. We eat and go back to work, the guests renew their acquaintances and start to drift off. The following day I’ll take a hot water hose out and wash the equipment, let it dry for a day or two and cover it up ’til the next season. Easy-peasey clean up.

     

     

    Many years ago we started with chips/dip and venison sticks, now its become a great buffet. This year we had about 40 people, some were classmates. The Pope came and blessed our endeavors, hopefully in 2019 we’ll have more Glibs, all are welcome. Family friendly, entertaining, educational.

    If any Glibs are interested,  go on line to Mann Lake Bee. See their catalog. I have seen hives in Austin, TX, in the city, easy for urban dwellers if you have a privacy fence. Check locally for bee keeper associations, find a club, or best of all, find a partner with some knowledge, help him for a year or two, watch YouTube videos. Don’t expect to make any money selling honey, the equipment is too expensive unless you are serious.

    We don’t sell any, just give it away for gifts. One has a lot more friends when one is gifting honey. I’ve heard that there is some potable beverage that can be made with honey and other ingredients. I’ll be happy to entertain questions.